Make sure R219 (thumbwheel) isn't turned up past halfway, and R603 isn't cranked up all the way also. Clean the pins and socket of V203 (12AX7). I installed that "Zack Cap" about 10 years ago for a local that owned them. I used a lot of them purchased from VibroWorld, especially when CP Manufacturing was having their problems. Zack built them for Hi-Fi and guitar amp replacements. Hence the chrome can.
If the rectifiers or the filter caps are shorted it will usually burn R42, the 4.7 ohm 1 W resistor. The rectifier pack is a doubler, 123 VAC in gives you approx. 300 VDC out. The rectifier pack can be easily replaced with a couple of 1N4007 rectifiers.
Will this transmitter work with any of the other AM only Browning recievers ?(R27, Golden Eagle Mark1, Mark II etc.)
Rule of thumb for mixing new/old transmitters and receivers. If the transmitter is older then the receiver, you probably won't have any trouble. If the receiver is older then the transmitter, expect smoke. If have used a MKII receiver with a MKIII transmitter without any trouble. I have repaired R27 receivers that were hooked up to MKII transmitters. Just follow the diagram pin for pin of the 8 pin socket or connector of each unit and see if there is going to be trouble such as grounds, "On The Air" lights, etc.
That is the original long pointer knob. There are two different front panels for the 23/S Nine. One has the long pointer knob with the channel numbers printed on panel like yours and the other has a small pointer knob with the numbers printed on a metal disc. The early model covers were painted a reddish brown (oxblood) and the later ones were dark brown. The R2700 / S9 series is my all time favorite to repair and operate. In my opinion the S 9 transmitter has the most audio of any other Browning transmitter.
The less defined eagle, blonde speaker grill, gold meter bezels and black round rubber feet were leftovers from the MKII series. They were used on the early MKIII's until the supplies ran out. The receiver with these shouldn't have the HF band from the factory like the later models. In about the second or third year there was a bad paint run giving the front panels a "greenish" tint. The blonde MKII speaker grills were used on the two piece front panels where the speaker grill was screwed on to the chassis. The later models with the brown grills were a one piece front panel and the grills were glued on.
The preamp is still connected. The voltage is derived from the red PTT wire. There is a 100 ohm dropping resistor and a couple of 5 V zeners on the preamp board to lower the PTT voltage to 5 V to power the preamp. The brown stripe 776 replaced the banana mic on the last of the MKIII's. The later orange stripe model was for the MKIV and MKIVA. Either model can easily be changed over for either transmitter.
I bought some extra gold knobs on the 'bay awhile back, & they have "Japan" stamped on the back! This can't be true! Are they after market or something. I was giong to put them on my Mark II to replace the brown, plastic knobs, but now I would like to know where the plastic knobs were manufactured? .. I told Watermellon Man on 26.915 that his Mark III was Not totally made in the USA like he was bragging about! LOL! ...I know I need to get a life, but I want to say it's American Made!
The ALCO Japan knobs are from the MKIV. The brown MKII knobs were manufactured by Raytheon. May or may not be manufactured in the states.
I would look around V301, the AM receive oscillator. When the receive drops out, pull the crystal out next to the tube and then reinstall it. If the receive comes right back in, then that could be your problem.
Since it effects the AM receive only, I would check around tube V301. The 6BK7B, with the crystal next to it. Check for either a loose tube, bad or loose crystal or a bad connection where the large 100 K resistors solder to the board.
6BQ7's, 6BK7's, 12AX7's, etc. are twin triodes. The two settings are for each section. The Mighty Mite's are emission testers, so you will find very few tubes that will check bad. Best way is to life test them by lowering the filament setting to next lowest voltage. Example, 4-5 instead of 6. Page A of the operating instructions tells about this.
They use 6BQ5's for the final output and modulator. Output is comparable to a Browning MKIII or MKIV. The Deluxe has the Load and Plate tuning caps on the front panel. Easy to match the transmitter to an amp or different antennas.
You are going to want the later Satelite Deluxe or the Super Satelite. The very early Satelite's have very little selectivity. Not good for today's conditions when the skip is in. A PAL VFO works great for adding the 40 channels on both transmit and receive. I have been using a set of Deluxes with a PAL VFO for a couple of years now with good results.
I didn't hear anything from Pennsylvania, but I did talk to an op in Maryland during CRR. I also broke in on Steel Magnolia in Florida during her political discussion. I used to monitor channel 13 a couple of years ago and am familiar with her. Her husband is Quarterwatt, the guy that says "It's just that easy." all the time.
I have a Hy Gain V model 674B with the pushbuttons that I bought used in 1977. It had the Hy-Gain VI VFO already on it. It has a pigtail connector on the back that the VFO plugs into. I used it for SSB up until 1993 without any drift from the VFO. I set the VFO up to start transmitting on channel 24 and it went up into the HF portion above channel 40.
It could be one of the tubes in the audio or the MKIV's can have a problem where the socket solders to the printed board. The MKIV's transmitter shares the same power supply with the receiver. Usually if it is a filter problem you will have a hum in the receive audio also.