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Post by husker on Nov 14, 2008 20:31:46 GMT -5
On my D201A, it seems the clarifier doesn't do anything. A few days ago I was getting some DX on LSB 38, I was having issues understanding them and it seemed no matter what I tried I couldn't get anything to work.
Anyone know if there is anything specific I can look for to trouble shoot this?
Thanks
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**GRUMPY**
Administrator/The Boss 
Classic Radio Operator Olde Timer 8220 [/color][/center]
"The King of Ping"
Posts: 4,342
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Post by **GRUMPY** on Nov 14, 2008 22:52:33 GMT -5
Does this happen in both manual and crystal positions?
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Post by husker on Nov 14, 2008 23:53:53 GMT -5
WELCOME BACK! Man are we glad you are back and doing ok!
Yes, it happens in both modes. Alan (fixr) thinks I may have a bad switch. He told me he has replaced MANY of them over the years.
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**GRUMPY**
Administrator/The Boss
Classic Radio Operator Olde Timer 8220 [/color][/center]
"The King of Ping"
Posts: 4,342
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Post by **GRUMPY** on Nov 15, 2008 0:02:00 GMT -5
WELCOME BACK! Man are we glad you are back and doing ok! Yes, it happens in both modes. Alan (fixr) thinks I may have a bad switch. He told me he has replaced MANY of them over the years.
Good enough, I just wanted to make sure your problem was addressed. Alan should know! |
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Post by 2600 on Nov 15, 2008 0:50:48 GMT -5
It's also possible that whoever modified it to transmit on the VFO has accidentally disabled the clarifier on the crystals.
There is more than one way to disable the slider's factory lockout. Some methods have this side effect.
Welcome back, Grumpy! You had some of us worried.
73
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Post by husker on Nov 15, 2008 0:57:38 GMT -5
Can you give me an idea of what to look for ?? I follow directions very well.
The switch FEELS ok, I do have a spare, but don't want to install unless I really need to. parts are becoming harder and harder to come by
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Post by 2600 on Nov 15, 2008 1:20:35 GMT -5
I know I posted the procedure for the 23-channel circuit-board radio here year or more ago. Can't seem to find it.
Maybe it's time I found the file on my end and post it again.
First I gotta figure out which computer it was on.
73
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Post by husker on Nov 15, 2008 14:30:27 GMT -5
Please do! It would help me alot. I am going to try to return this radio to stock!!
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Post by 2600 on Nov 15, 2008 23:53:43 GMT -5
Ummm. "STOCK"?
As in, factory stock?
As in, won't transmit on the slider, but only transmits on the crystals?
Didn't think that was what you meant.
If it is, this won't be much help.
73
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Post by 2600 on Nov 16, 2008 2:09:05 GMT -5
Got the file extracted from the 16-bit box and (I hope) scrubbed up enough to paste here.
This procedure will convert the factory-stock "receive-only" VFO to transmit and receive, both. The crystal selector is STILL active after this procedure. You set it to 9 (or 12) to set the VFO dial.
Turn the crystal selector to channel 1, and the manual side will now tune 10 channels lower than the dial. Set the crystal selector to 23 and the manual dial will now cover 15 channels higher than the dial markings. Should tune down to 26.825 or so when the manual dial is calibrated to match the channel 9 crystal-selector position.
Clarifier/vfo modification for Tram D-201 23-channel base radio.
Copyright 1986-2008 nomadradio.com
C.R. 1/25/96; 12/17/97 (step 8); 7/15/00 (STEP 12)
** This version for the 23-channel D201 with pc boards. **
1)- REMOVE Q101 FROM THE SYNTHESIZER BOARD (THE ONE NEAREST THE
CENTER OF THE BOARD)
->DEFEATS HALF OF THE "9-12 CRYSTAL CUT-IN" THAT WAS USED IN
THE ORIGINAL FACTORY SET-UP TO KEEP THE SLIDER DIAL MARKINGS
CORRECT REGARDLESS OF THE CRYSTAL SELECTOR CHANNEL POSITION.
2)- MAKE SURE THAT D125 IS PROPERLY IN PLACE. D125 IS THE ONE
NEARSET THE BIAS TRIMPOTS. CUT D124 LOCATED UNDERSIDE JUST
BEHIND SQUELCH POT. CUT D126 ON THE REAR OF THE MODE SWITCH
-> REMOVES 14V FROM SYN BOARD PINS 11 AND 9 VIA S3, DISABLES
THE OTHER HALF OF THE "9-12 CRYSTAL CUT-IN". PINS 11 AND 9
FEED THE 16.4085 AND 16.4115 CRYSTALS (CHS 9-12) REGARDLESS
OF CHANNEL SWITCH POSITION. DIODES D114 AND D116 PREVENT
THIS FROM TURNING ON ANY OF THE OTHER 16 MHZ CRYSTALS.
3)- MAKE SURE THE YELLOW-WHITE WIRE FROM THE TOP (CW) OF THE
CLARIFIER POT TO THE SYN. BOARD IS IN PLACE.
-> THIS WIRE COMPLETES THE CLARIFIER POT CIRCUIT TO THE
FIXED RESISTORS ON THE SYN. BOARD.
4)- REMOVE THE * OTHER * YELLOW-WHITE WIRE AT THE TOP (CW) LUG OF
THE CLARIFIER, ADD SUFFICIENT LENGTH TO REACH S4-6.(ONE OR
TWO ORANGE-WHITE WIRES)
-> THE ORG-WHI WIRES ON S4-6 ARE CONSTANT 14 VOLTS, THE
YELLOW-WHITE WIRE LEADS TO THE MODE SWITCH AT S3D PIN 9, AND
CONTINUOUSLY SELECTS THE MAIN SET OF 16-MHZ XTAL SELECT
DIODES ON THE SYN.BOARD. THIS IS NECESSARY SINCE THE "CH 9-12
CUT-IN" DIODES HAVE NOW BEEN DISABLED BY CUTTING D124 IN STEP
2 ABOVE.
5)- MAKE SURE THE VIOLET WIRE (LEADING TO THE HOLE IN THE
CHASSIS UNDER S4) IS SOLDERED TO S4-3.
2
6)- Remove the three blue/white wires from s4-2, strip the ends
and solder all three ends together into a bundle.
7)- Remove the anode end of D128 from S4-1, solder to the 3-wire
blue/white bundle.
-> This supplies B+ to the clarifier during receive for both
manual and crystal modes.
.pa
8)-THERE ARE 2 (OR 3) RED/WHITE WIRES ON S4-5. ONE OF THEM GOES
TO PIN 12 ON THE SYN.BOARD. LEAVE THIS ONE ALONE. ONE (OR THE
ONLY) OTHER RED/WHITE WIRE GOES INTO A HOLE IN THE CHASSIS. MOVE
THIS WIRE FROM S4-5 TO S4-2. IF THERE IS A THIRD RED/WHITE WIRE,
IT GOES TO THE 'CAL' SWITCH. LEAVE THIS ONE ALONE, TOO. MAKE SURE
THE VIOLET WIRE IS STILL ON S4-3.
-> The red/white wire TURNS ON R143 ON SYN.BOARD (FIXED
TRANSMIT TRIMMER) DURING TRANSMIT IN MANUAL MODE ONLY.
THE RED-WHITE WIRE SUPPLIES +14V ON TRANSMIT ONLY, FROM
D125. THE VIOLET WIRE LEADS TO R143. THIS TAKES THE PLACE OF
THE CLARIFIER CONTROL WHEN TRANSMITTING IN MANUAL, AND IS
USED TO MAKE THE TRANSMIT FREQUENCY AGREE WITH THE 12
O'CLOCK CLARIFIER POSITION DURING RECEIVE. IN THE ORIGINAL
FACTORY SET-UP, THIS WAS USED TO SATISFY THE FCC REQUIREMENT
THAT NO EXTERNAL CONTROL BE ALLOWED TO AFFECT TRANSMIT
FREQUENCY OTHER THAN THE CHANNEL (CRYSTAL) SELECTOR. R143
WAS TURNED ON WHENEVER TRANSMITTING, AND THE CLARIFIER
TURNED OFF.
9) ADD A DIODE (1N4148 OR EQU): ANODE TO S4-5 (SHOULD HAVE TWO
REMAINING RED-WHITE WIRES) CATHODE TO TOP (CW) LUG OF
CLARIFIER POT. (SHOULD ALREADY HAVE ONE YELLOW-WHITE WIRE AND
THE CATHODE LEAD OF D128 ON IT).
-> The CONTINUOUS 14 volts on the orange/white wires at S4-6
feed the clarifier via the ADDED diode on transmit and
receive in CRYSTAL mode only
10) JUMPER S4-10 (ORANGE WIRE) TO GROUND NEARBY.
-> The yellow wire goes to the cathode circuit of the vfo
oscillator tube. The orange wire goes to the T/R relay, and
to ground through it ONLY on receive. Grounding the orange
wire turns on the VFO only on MANUAL mode, but for transmit
receive both.
11) SET R145 FOR REASONABLE CLARIFIER RANGE. R145 IS THE ONE
CLOSEST TO THE EDGE.
12) CONNECT FREQ. COUNTER TO SYN.BOARD OUTPUT, SELECT MANUAL
MODE, SET CLARIFIER TO 12 O'CLOCK, SET R143 (THE
INNERMOST ONE OF THE TWO TRIMPOTS) TO MAKE TRANSMIT
FREQUENCY AGREE WITH RECEIVE FREQUENCY. SELECTING SIDEBAND
3
AND TURNING THE MIKE GAIN DOWN MAY HELP OBTAIN A STABLE
FREQUENCY READING. R143 IS THE INNER TRIMPOT
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Post by husker on Nov 16, 2008 2:33:01 GMT -5
Ok, looks easy enough  Also, this radio had a power mod done ot it. I can only assume the guy ran an amp because the low power side is 2.5 watts (AM) and high is 3.5 (am) and I can't seem to get more then 6 watts on SSB. I have checked the final and it is over 95%..which adj is the one that will turn up the power some??? thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by husker on Nov 18, 2008 20:33:00 GMT -5
Just FYI, I replaced the switch first (alan's idea) and it didn't do anything. The above is my next action item
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