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Post by Afterburner(OT-749) on Feb 28, 2009 7:44:58 GMT -5
I feel that this issue may have been spoken about previously in a different string, but I cant find it so I will ask again. On a Moonraker 4, what would be the difference in using insulated or non-insulated copper wire. I know that I am a little on the thick headed side, but I do not see where the plastic insulation would make any difference in the ability to block/or allow a radio signal to pass through. I have my Moonraker down rebuilding and cleaning it and the copper wire (original bare wire) is getting questionable as if it should be used again. I can't seem to find the proper gauge wire that is bare already so I am looking at having to purchase insulated wire and stripping it. That will cause nicks in the wire no matter how careful you may be, which would prove detrimental in durability to wind loads (recently here in WV we have had 60 + MPH winds).
Just want to get opinions of those that are more knowledgeable than I am on what would be the best to do. This Moonraker is up on top of a 70 foot free-standing tower, so putting it up and taking it down is not exactly the easiest thing to do so I want to do the rebuild correctly so not to have to put it up just to take it down because of the back door not being right. I am changing out all the hardware (antenna and tower) to stainless and changing the old worm gear type clamps to the better high pressure band clamps, removing the oxidation from the aluminum, and sent the rotor off for a rebuild.
I am trying to do this right and any and all opinions are welcomed from those are more knowledgeable than I.
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Post by BionicChicken on Feb 28, 2009 8:07:05 GMT -5
You should be able to find bare, stranded 14 guage wire at most building or electrical supply houses. Someone here smarter than me can probably tell you the why or why nots. Usually the easiest way for me to skin the wire is to take a knife (not overly sharp) and place the wire between my thumb and blade and slowly pull with the wire with my other hand. It takes just a little time but you will get the hang of it and not nick the wire. Stranded will last a lot longer than the solid. Wilson antennas used to send stranded for theirs.
I just remembered something from long ago, Radio Shack used to sell shortwave radio listening wire that had enough bare stranded wire in it to wire the reflector. If they still have it or not I'm not sure since they have quit handling a lot of stuff like that.
BC
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Post by husker on Feb 28, 2009 12:16:32 GMT -5
There is a guy on Ebay that sells replacement wire for the rear elements. I think I paid 24 bucks, the only difference is they are custom cut not on big long piece. They have loop connectors etc..may be a better design, I don't really know. I don't think they are copper.
Do a search for moonraker 4 under the antenna section in CB radio..
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Post by spitfire441 on Mar 1, 2009 6:15:50 GMT -5
I feel that this issue may have been spoken about previously in a different string, but I cant find it so I will ask again. On a Moonraker 4, what would be the difference in using insulated or non-insulated copper wire. I know that I am a little on the thick headed side, but I do not see where the plastic insulation would make any difference in the ability to block/or allow a radio signal to pass through. I have my Moonraker down rebuilding and cleaning it and the copper wire (original bare wire) is getting questionable as if it should be used again. I can't seem to find the proper gauge wire that is bare already so I am looking at having to purchase insulated wire and stripping it. That will cause nicks in the wire no matter how careful you may be, which would prove detrimental in durability to wind loads (recently here in WV we have had 60 + MPH winds). Just want to get opinions of those that are more knowledgeable than I am on what would be the best to do. This Moonraker is up on top of a 70 foot free-standing tower, so putting it up and taking it down is not exactly the easiest thing to do so I want to do the rebuild correctly so not to have to put it up just to take it down because of the back door not being right. I am changing out all the hardware (antenna and tower) to stainless and changing the old worm gear type clamps to the better high pressure band clamps, removing the oxidation from the aluminum, and sent the rotor off for a rebuild. I am trying to do this right and any and all opinions are welcomed from those are more knowledgeable than I. In my experience and that of all the antenna guru's, of witch I claim no fame, but I pay attention. I have 14 antennas at my QTH and 9 are home brew wires. That said, insulation on the wire causes a capacitance effect to a small degree. It makes the wire electrically longer to RF than the physical size. Just plan on making it about 5% smaller with insulated vs non-insulated. |
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Post by zman on Mar 31, 2009 10:42:21 GMT -5
The stranded wire will hold up better. I used to have a moonraker up in the air when i lived back home and when I took down the beam 10 years after it was installed the original wire was intact.
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Post by cleosdad2001 on Apr 12, 2009 13:13:23 GMT -5
Radio Shack still sells that shortwave antenna kit with the wire you mentioned.
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Post by 275~Ghost Rider on Aug 6, 2009 13:18:24 GMT -5
I have a Moonraker 4 that I'm redoing. There are some parts on ebay.
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Post by marven the martian on Aug 6, 2009 22:25:59 GMT -5
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Post by marven the martian on Aug 6, 2009 22:29:03 GMT -5
Forgot to mention, you can also get the factory original assembly instructions, with measurements for all elements.
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Post by zman on Aug 27, 2009 18:58:15 GMT -5
275 Ghost rider.
What parts do you need? I may have some spare parts overhead in my shop.
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Post by Afterburner(OT-749) on Aug 28, 2009 14:44:50 GMT -5
Well zman...after taking it down and disassembly, the other concern that I have is that of my gamma matches. They were corroded in place (could not move the rod in/out). I applied a lot of penetrating lubricant and slowly over a few days finally got them out and moving but the inner rod is badly pitted where it "slides" in or out of the outer piece. I also broke one of the aluminum studs and nut getting the gamma match apart. Other than that it is in fairly good shape (no hubs cracked or fiberglass splintered).
In my head I say to myself, replace the gamma matches, but unsure how much effect the corrosion would /may have . The corrosion is gone now, as the whole antenna cleaned up nicely (almost looks new actually). Re-assembly is going a little slow as I have been stuck down in Louisiana because of work most all of the summer. I am looking forward to getting home time soon so I can get it totally re-assembled and back in the air. When I do get home once in awhile now (long weekends), it is just not the same firing up the MK III and talking on the stick!
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Post by Marc on Aug 28, 2009 15:43:32 GMT -5
I bet those gammas are still good.
Just take some 0000 steal wool to the rods and clean them real good.
Then get a 22 caliber cleaning kit and use the barrel swab (not the brush)and some good electronics parts cleaner and get the penetrating oil out of the tube.
Did that to my PDL2 they worked just fine.
Marc
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**GRUMPY**
Administrator/The Boss 
Classic Radio Operator Olde Timer 8220 [/color][/center]
"The King of Ping"
Posts: 4,342
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Post by **GRUMPY** on Sept 2, 2009 6:19:01 GMT -5
Spray some oven cleaner on them and rinse them off with water, they will clean up like new!
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Post by BionicChicken on Sept 2, 2009 6:44:35 GMT -5
WhewwHoooo!!! The Boss is back!!! Hey Scott. Hope the world is treating you royally. Good to see you back in the mix if even for a little while.
BC
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Post by zman on Sept 2, 2009 21:25:27 GMT -5
Afterburner.
Well if you need some parts just let me know. I can see what i have. I will sell you parts at FAR LESS than what they go for on Epay.
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Post by 275~Ghost Rider on Sept 30, 2009 7:24:45 GMT -5
275 Ghost rider. What parts do you need? I may have some spare parts overhead in my shop. I'm still working on it. Let me know what you have Thanks 275 |
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Post by rci2985dx on Oct 23, 2009 18:48:55 GMT -5
Hey 275~GhostRider, I may need a part or two if you have some. I am rebuilding my PDL-2 using stainless hardware, noalox on all aluminum parts and a few improvments of my own. I may need some of the loop sections.
AP
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