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Post by bluemax on Mar 5, 2024 12:43:56 GMT -5
Opened her up the other day after looking at some paperwork. Yes, two fuses with conductors so fine I could not tell the wire from the reflection of the curved glass. Tested with the voltmeter and they're both fine. I want to say that the Rx light is lit with power on...but my photographic memory is apparently not digital, and it's out of film. I'll see if I remember that check-out. I have it unplugged and it's ready to go somewhere... when I decide where that place is.
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Post by bluemax on Feb 29, 2024 14:24:34 GMT -5
Well, I will need to print this for future reference as I know I will forget by the end of this message. But THANK YOU for the explanation(s). Both are informative and plain enough for me to understand. You have also given me some insight into why I see 9 and 13-volt power circuits. I just assumed that these radios were all the same 12/13/14 volts throughout, as supplied. I've noticed some lighter voltage but never traced to see what and where. Switch powering makes all sorts of sense. Again, I appreciate the ability of you and many others to provide me with my never-ending quest for "why". It seems to be as much of a curse as it is a benefit. And good call on the latent voltage. I've been inside a few tube appliances, but I approach them with equal doses of care, inquisitiveness, caution, and respect.
Big Al
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Post by bluemax on Feb 29, 2024 10:37:25 GMT -5
I think I need to learn how to quote so the right person gets alerted to my response...BUT
Regarding Bobcat, and I'm way beyond my original Q, so IF I had an electronically switched radio, and I didn't have a correctly wired mic to plug in, the audio would likely still not work?
And CBrown, does the PTT switch Connect a circuit for the mic, disconnect a circuit, or both? I'm starting to think maybe two simultaneous functions, hence the 2 grounds...disconnect audio and activate TX?
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Post by bluemax on Feb 26, 2024 9:25:38 GMT -5
Ahaaaa. You know I was wondering about a power issue, but the schematic that we printed at work wasn't easy for me to follow. I never picked up on fuses. That's something I should be able to check. And the yellow bird seemed to have gotten tired and faded off to sleep. Saturday I warmed it up and everything seemed OK. So I gather maybe a weak tube on the receive circuit or amplifier. But I find myself bumping knobs and not knowing it due to neuropathy in my fingers...although I remember trying the volume with no effect on Wednesday. My two three-knobs are out of commission for this week. Seems like my classics are all falling apart simultaneously. I'll bet it's Covid related. I may have to buy some more just to join the fun. Taking almost a year off with equipment in a semi-controlled environment likely didn't help.
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Post by bluemax on Feb 23, 2024 7:37:00 GMT -5
No movement on the meter at all. Squelch on my radios always minimum...full counterclockwise. I have also found a D104 wiring list that call for two wires on one pin for this radio. Which begs another Q (aren't you happy?) Are the new handheld D104's wires the same color and function as the desk model? I have a handheld and some of the info I see is obviously from times when they didn't exist.
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Post by bluemax on Feb 23, 2024 7:31:15 GMT -5
Thanks, bobcat! I have an extension speaker hooked up but I didn't try PA. I will once I get the mic wired to what you show. Then attempt a TX. I did make that hookup assumption after comparing some different webpages...extrapolating between Astatic and Turner hookups. Not easy, but I figured I couldn't burn the radio using printing and paper & pencil! Your explanation of receive confuses me. Why would no mic attached be any different on Rx sound than "relaxed/non energized" connected mic? ....This is typical of the way my mind works. Like someone explaining a computer action. Knowing what to do is great, but knowing why is better. (I think) Some basic questions: So you see signals on the S meter? Is the squelch control fully counter clockwise? Yes, the radio is relay switched, which means you don't need a mic to hear stations. If you can see signals on the meter but can't hear them, that likely means that the audio circuit has a fault. This radios still uses discrete audio transistors in the audio final amp, and not a IC. But that doesn't mean that those can't fail just as easily. If you wire the mic by the diagram given and it throws a carrier and no modulation, that would be a clincher that there is a problem in the audio amp. Although you should be able to modulate on SSB since that uses an entirely different path. If no carrier at all (but the relay clicks) and no signals, then I would suspect a PLL issue.
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Post by bluemax on Feb 21, 2024 11:48:05 GMT -5
Thanks, bobcat! I have an extension speaker hooked up but I didn't try PA. I will once I get the mic wired to what you show. Then attempt a TX. I did make that hookup assumption after comparing some different webpages...extrapolating between Astatic and Turner hookups. Not easy, but I figured I couldn't burn the radio using printing and paper & pencil! Your explanation of receive confuses me. Why would no mic attached be any different on Rx sound than "relaxed/non energized" connected mic? ....This is typical of the way my mind works. Like someone explaining a computer action. Knowing what to do is great, but knowing why is better. (I think)
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Post by bluemax on Feb 19, 2024 9:37:06 GMT -5
Picked up what could be a nice addition or a terrible headache. No mic came with the unit. Powers up; seller had no mic to try. He said he connected pins to receive but couldn't transmit. OK, I thought that sounded promising. I've tried so many mic combinations my head spins. And then I thought...I'm getting no audio without a proper mic, but this should be a relay unit. I should still hear audio with no mic. I'm assuming that is correct? I'm trying a handheld D104 and an SSB+2. Should I be starting with an unamplified dynamic mic? I have had trouble with my other Royce not liking power mics. And for all the photos I've seen of this radio, none are with anything other than your basic stock mic. I will say that this is BY FAR the beefiest CB radio I've ever lifted in my life. It's the size of 6 bricks, and I would say the same weight! I'm thinking I should make a trip to R&R. Any suggestions for an attempt first? Just for info, my antenna is back up and doing well.
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Post by bluemax on Feb 5, 2019 16:45:54 GMT -5
I'm on my third year with my Lil Wil on the S10. Ran the coax over the roof, down between the box and the rear of the cab. I drilled through about 6" off the floor and 8" from the side of the body. Wrapped the coax with numerous layers of duct tape until it was a snug fit. Caulked it from the inside with clear silicone and sprayed the outside 3 or 4 times with Clear Flex Seal. Now my S10 goes on water AND has a radio!! I figure I just need to spray it every couple years, and you can't really see the clear rubber between the cab and bed.
I also use black flex seal for all my outside coax fittings. Haven't had a problem yet. Even the main solder joints for my connection to the copper J-Pole.
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Post by bluemax on Jan 22, 2019 11:45:28 GMT -5
Now you did it. Wait until you hear the stories these guys have about where they mounted CB radios as kids. I haven't heard of any skateboard mobiles, and wakeboards don't work well even with walkie talkies, but I have a feeling one of these guys MUST have tried a sled. C'mon you guys...fess up.
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Post by bluemax on Aug 21, 2018 8:07:32 GMT -5
Don't be too quick to toss that perfectly good MRE; you can't judge a meal on the appetizer. As I recall, that night was EXTREMELY noisy for me with DX blabber. And not enjoyable blabber at that. If I'm not mistaken, this skip should calm down pretty soon. I enjoy a day or two now and then, but not daily for months at a time.
Now I'll be the first to admit that my 10PM evenings are very few and far between. And if I recall there are a few other rather seasoned fellows that work in this miserable weather we've been enduring for WAY TOO LONG. I'm sure there are plenty of unconditioned shacks that are mighty uncomfortable right now, also.
I just spoke to a new contact last evening who is waiting for a free Wednesday evening in his schedule so he can join the fun.
I think the old horse has a few good years left in her. Maybe she can't plow any more, but she's still good for an easy ride now and again.
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Post by bluemax on Aug 1, 2018 14:06:44 GMT -5
KXU4524, hence "Radio 524 Southeastern Pennsylvania on the frequency". 1973. I had more up on top, less around the middle, and money in my pocket. Them were days. And my original Robyn SX101 that came home to me was in my first car, license 15H403. Don't ask the VIN!
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Post by bluemax on May 18, 2018 14:05:16 GMT -5
Well Bobcat, sounds like you need to investigate Doc Hammer's set-up and get hooked up yourself. I admit, I'm old school and didn't understand how he could be in Kansas and sound like next door. Cat's out of the bag now. I got into CB with a buddy from the neighborhood in 10th grade, I think. About 4 years ago I decided to buy a new radio, as my original had long since gone away. So I wasted a bunch of money on a 10 meter Ranger, put up a dipole, and tried it out. I'm pretty high on a hill and my range goes right over most of the guys on CRR. I happened to talk to a few of them once in a while, then started listening in more, then started looking into old radios. I wanted to get an old classic myself. I bought an old radio from a Goodwill store in Indiana, same as my old original. When I opened the box, a damn near dropped over. I really believe (by three unique markings) that I bought back my old Robyn SX101, which went with my old truck to auction in 1989. Since then I've picked up a couple more classics; my newest is on the website here under TEST AREA. I don't know when the last time was I turned on the Ranger. It's too much fun talking on and about these old beauties. I didn't have a radio budget when I got going, so I started making home brew antennas. I stopped when I finally got my 28 foot copper pipe J pole tuned pretty good on Ch13. And these guys have all been extremely helpful and patient with me and my questions. So is my wife.
73
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Post by bluemax on Apr 5, 2018 7:35:17 GMT -5
Alright, then it sounds like with any amount of sanity and common caution, I don't need to rewire these things with three prong plugs. All my equipment is behind me when I'm near the sink, and all GFI protected; a precaution that was designed into the layout of my room.
Thanks, AGAIN. And, no, my electrical interference issue hasn't yet been corrected. I suppose the crews are too busy with winter storms. As the weather is getting warmer, the trouble is again increasing. So I'm only on the air on COLD days, or evenings after dark when the temps are down around 35 or less.
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Post by bluemax on Apr 4, 2018 7:54:37 GMT -5
I gave this more thought last evening, and the fact that I now have two dangling halves of a former component really does raise insulation issues, and I "assume" that a short not only negates the operation of the cap, but jeopardizes other circuitry. I'll check to see if a clean cut at both end of the existing can and lid leave me some decent pigtails to attach the new parts. That might keep me far enough away from the old joints. None of the new caps I investigated had long tails, but that may not be so bad if I leave some of the old ones in place.
One last question...for now. My Dad's old Nordmende Hi Fi was in a wooden case with the standard non-polarized AC plug. No way to tell( without test meter) if the board was hot or neutral each time it was plugged in, but as long as the case was all closed you couldn't touch anything. These Robyns are metal cases with metal chassis, and I don't see any insulation between the two. But since the plug is not polarized, how is it that we don't get shocked or worse? Especially guys who work in the basement on damp concrete floors without GFI outlets!! How is this board never hot when either AC leg could be hot or neutral?
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Post by bluemax on Apr 3, 2018 8:48:17 GMT -5
OK, I know this will make some of you cringe cause it's really bogus. I'm not a very good guy to do really fine solder work in tight spaces. (I've "almost" seen the size of some of these new ceramic caps) I have cleaned out the cartridge of the bad cap. The points that it connect to are almost invisible and VERY close to a dozen other wires and joints. I would like to leave the existing "can and cap" in place and solder the new cap to the existing leads since they are well exposed and held fairly stationary. It might not look good, but it SHOULD function. If I take all the rest of the stuff off I need to make working room, this thing will be scrap. I figure that getting it operational is more important than historic preservation. If I get it all up and running, I can then decide how beautiful it needs to be.
Thoughts?
(parts are on the way)
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Post by bluemax on Apr 2, 2018 8:27:45 GMT -5
O.k., sorry for the lame question. This is only the second time I've ever had to cut into a radio. What kind of cap do I use to replace this with? found this on a search...don't know where to find it. But this looks like my Robyn T123b that recently introduced me to "magic smoke". After doing some reading, it appears to me that these foil caps are part of an audio circuit, and may not be absolutely necessary to the basic function of the radio. Since I have more pressing issues to attend, I would like to proceed with other repairs. Will these caps affect any transmit/ receive function or harm the radio's basic function if left defunct? please leave a trail for this posting or a message to me. BlueMax
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Post by bluemax on Mar 2, 2018 10:42:02 GMT -5
Personally, I like Unidad. It reminds me of the Uniblab on The Jetsons. Anything that reminds me of childhood cartoons makes me smile . hey that was fun...
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Post by bluemax on Dec 17, 2017 11:36:20 GMT -5
I can figure that out. I'm having trouble finding leg identification for the can style BJT. I found the 2SC756A (attached). I would guess the 756 is the same leg configuration? p5 data 2SC756A.pdf (41.73 KB) Also, can the transistor be tested in the board, or will other components foul that test. It would be nice to test without removal if possible.
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Post by bluemax on Dec 15, 2017 14:15:05 GMT -5
Well, the suggestion is valid, and I would if I could. But I can't and it's not worth spending money to have a pro align it for the test or to buy equipment myself. At this point the transistor is $12 for a pair. That's cheaper than the cheapest piece of test equipment on the list of what I would need.
And as long as I'm getting 2 brand new, I would hope at least one works. I suppose the only way to test a transistor is to apply the exact voltage it requires to open...no more or less. Is that a true assumption?
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Post by bluemax on Dec 15, 2017 10:26:21 GMT -5
I double checked myself, and it is definitely WV23, and the Owner's manual says TR14 is the final, and the part number is just 2SC756. The existing component has no stamped markings visible. I did locate a new one which is stamped C756, but would I do myself a favor to look for the 2SC756A? Is the latter going to fit the location physically as well as the circuitry? Or do I just stay with original? I don't need a Lamborghini out of this one!
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Post by bluemax on Dec 13, 2017 9:53:49 GMT -5
That's scary...and yes you're right. You obviously opened a few of these. And it's not what I expected to see. It's metal piece the size and shape of a pencil eraser. And it appears to be mechanically connected with a sort of saddle clamp. I didn't remove it yet...is that the case? no solder direct to the board? I expect to see that with computer chips today, not radios from the 70's.
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Post by bluemax on Dec 12, 2017 10:55:41 GMT -5
Well, the result of trying the radio a couple weeks ago was convincing, although not the ideal outcome. It seems as though we lost a final by all reasonable deductions. But I suppose that also points to why the meter swung backward; rather than the modulation set too high the output power was fading drastically causing the same imbalance. Just for fun, I checked the parts list and that transistor isn't available readily on EBAY or a few broad searches. What I find are a bunch of sites selling newer transistors as replacement "or equals". Can anyone recommend a reliable source for a novice to search? It appears that there might be a few parts that MAY work, but at the cost of buying them all (and risking more potential damage) I'd rather have confidence in what to buy.
And just a side note, apparently this radio was built with "smokeless" parts. Too bad, since my shack could use the release of some "Magic".
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Post by bluemax on Nov 29, 2017 11:07:52 GMT -5
Yes, the obligatory Radio Shack SWR/RF Power combo. Not saying it's extremely accurate, but neither am I.
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Post by bluemax on Nov 28, 2017 15:15:06 GMT -5
Meter swings backwards on key up. I'm assuming someone tried something that didn't work. There are incriminating marks on the schematic. I am going on the assumption that the carrier and modulation are out of balance. My parts list only reveals a few variable resistors; 1-6 if I remember. #1 being the volume control and #2 squelch. The others are un-named and their relative location doesn't really help me i.d. them. I would expect one regulates basic output power and one adjusts modulation. And since a screwdriver probably messed it up in the first place, I though I might get lucky and be able to reverse the mistake. Sure isn't worth a repair shop, and I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do a complete alignment. And I'm not really sure if the meter reaction really means I need to do ANYTHING. I only keyed it up a couple times without a contact. I have a couple radios that have mis-functioning parts, but that doesn't stop me from using them! Anybody have experience with this? I didn't want to upload the layout if it wasn't necessary. This seems a likely radio for experimenting.
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Post by bluemax on Oct 18, 2017 12:45:03 GMT -5
I've noticed that the Ranger can ALMOST fine tune all the way between set channel frequencies. Not quite overlapping, but close. If there's a 10kHz difference, say Ch13 to Ch14, I can tune up from 13 and down from 14 and get pretty close to center. Sometimes it's hard to zero in on a frequency without trying both. So I might have a +/- 4 to 4.5kHz range on that radio. Big Difference!
And I remember some old ham radios that an uncle had were basically coarse/fine tuning up and down the entire band like all analog radios used to be. You can imagine how long it took to monitor a band that way.
Thanks.
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Post by bluemax on Oct 17, 2017 11:59:08 GMT -5
I had a very interesting contact the other night on a LSB CB frequency. I was on my classic Robyn SB520D and found myself tuning in each of the transmitting stations on different ends of my clarifier. Up, down, up again, down, oops missed him - UP. OK you get it. So I tuned in simulcast on my Ranger Superstar. After adjusting both radios to an acceptable frequency and volume, I was able to hear the exchange rather seamlessly. I used the Robyn for the station that was less off center (on my end) and the Ranger for the station that was almost at the extreme capability of the Robyn. So it dawned on me that there is a huge difference in fine tune capability. But since only the Ranger has a frequency counter, I don't know how much range I have on the Robyn. Thinking back to other sideband oldtimers, I would say that none of those radios had the fine tune range of the new stuff. Was there an acceptable standard in the 70's or thereabouts or did certain radios have much better range even then? And does anyone know what that range might be on the SB520D? I think I'm struggling with understanding how crystal tuning and VFO tuning overlap in this instance.
In any case it was a very interesting radio adventure.
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Post by bluemax on Jul 23, 2017 18:26:38 GMT -5
You guys have heard me going on and on about interference. I actually had a discussion with a tech rep from WPVI, 6ABC, around the time of the switch to digital. I am on the very far fringe of Channel 6, which is the station of choice most often. The funny thing is that 6 and 3 are broadcast from the EXACT SAME antenna at the Roxborough farm...but VERY different frequencies and hence different power allotments. But the pixelating and freezing is much worse today than at that time. Just like in the analog days, the higher frequency gets out here better, so I can tell which stations are higher or lower transmit frequency by my reception...or lack of it.
I wanted to put in a dish ( the 4 foot variety then ) when we moved in here, as there is no cable service. But I have mountains on three sides and evergreens in the direction necessary at that time, so I had the man put up a VERY good UHF/VHF antenna. For what it is, it works pretty well. My signal strength on the weakest stations isn't bad, but the interference is often overpowering the signal strength. No word yet from Met Ed...need to bug them again.
But I have noticed something worth mentioning...I'm using radio more and TV less. I have tons of old VCR's that I can still watch, DVD's in my library, and my son gets NETFLIX rentals regularly, so I'm not missing the crappy broadcast offerings anyway. When I do watch something it's PBS or an "Oldies" show. Gee, that's the way it was for me in the 70's, too!!!
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Post by bluemax on Jul 12, 2017 18:37:32 GMT -5
I am a true believer in Weber. I got the $h!t$ of going through a gas grill every few years, so I bought a kettle. Mrs Max doesn't care for the smokey taste of wood or charcoal, so I set my eyes on a Weber gas grill. Took a while for the right unit to be on sale. No side burner, no infrared, just a three burner powder coated stand with the best grates I ever owned. I love it, and my former single burner is now 5. But alas, I cannot handle the humid 90 degree days like I used to, but from 40 to 80 I am good to go. And best of all I can boil, saute and grill side by side...with or without a roof. All within audible range of my stereo and CB. What more does anyone need?
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Post by bluemax on Jul 8, 2017 17:17:04 GMT -5
Well, I will keep the reference for the future. I think if I were going to attempt my first alignment it might be on an unknown cadaver rather than a long lost love! Good chance that site has info on plenty of other radios I might want to use for a learning curve. Thank you very much. You do, however, give me too much credit at this point. But Marconi started SOMEWHERE!
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